How to Contact the Credit Bureau about Identity Theft | Stop Credit Damage

Contact a credit bureau fast to place an alert or freeze, then dispute any accounts or inquiries you didn’t authorize with clear proof.

When someone uses your identity, speed matters, but clarity matters more. A credit bureau can’t chase the thief. It can flag your file for extra ID checks, block most new credit applications through a freeze, and correct or block identity-theft items once you submit the right documents.

This is the playbook for making that contact count. You’ll get an order of operations, a call script, and a document packet that works across bureaus so you don’t keep redoing the same work.

How to Contact the Credit Bureau about Identity Theft Step By Step

Do these steps in order. They cut off new damage first, then handle clean-up.

1. Create an official identity theft report. Start at IdentityTheft.gov “What To Do Right Away” so you have a recovery plan and paperwork you can attach to disputes.
2. Choose your barrier: fraud alert or security freeze. Alerts add friction. Freezes block most new credit checks until you lift them.
3. Lock in one “proof packet.” Scan your ID, proof of address, and the identity theft report. Save them as clean PDFs you can reuse.
4. Pull your credit reports and mark every item you don’t recognize. Your disputes will be only as good as this list.
5. Contact the bureaus and request specific actions. Ask for the barrier you chose and the dispute or block process for the listed items.

Fraud alert vs security freeze

You can use one or both. Many people start with a freeze because it stops most new accounts. Some start with an alert because they plan to apply for credit soon.

Fraud alert basics

A fraud alert tells lenders to take extra steps to verify your identity before issuing new credit. The FTC explains the options, including longer alerts for confirmed identity theft. See FTC “Credit Freezes and Fraud Alerts”.

Security freeze basics

A security freeze restricts access to your credit file for most new credit checks. You can lift it for a short window when you need to apply for something, then put it back on. Each bureau offers online, phone, and mail paths.

What to have ready before you contact a bureau

Slow disputes usually come down to missing proof or vague requests. Build a packet once, then reuse it.

Your identity packet

• Government ID (front and back if relevant).
• Proof of current address (utility bill, bank statement, lease).
• Full name, date of birth, and your best contact phone and email for verification.

Your identity theft packet

• FTC identity theft report from IdentityTheft.gov.
• Any proof tied to the fraud: creditor letters, debt collector notices, account emails, hard-pull notifications.
• A one-page timeline with dates and reference numbers.

Your credit report notes

For each item you plan to dispute, write down the line exactly as it appears:

• Creditor or company name, plus the date opened or inquiry date.
• Account number as shown (even partial), balance, and status.
• Which bureau shows it, since items may appear on one report only.

Spotting identity theft on your credit report

You don’t need to be 100% sure before you start. If something looks off, treat it as real until you confirm it. The early goal is to stop new accounts, not to win an argument with a lender.

Red flags worth acting on

• New accounts you never opened. This includes store cards, online lenders, “buy now pay later” lines, and cell phone financing.
• Hard inquiries you don’t recognize. A thief may try several lenders in a short span. Each attempt can show up as an inquiry.
• Address or name changes. A new address can be a clue that someone rerouted mail to hide bills and collection letters.
• Collections tied to unfamiliar services. Medical, utility, and telecom fraud often shows up first as a collection item.

Quick triage so you don’t chase the wrong problem

Circle the items that create the most risk: brand-new accounts, big balances, and collection entries. Then circle any inquiry that matches the “opened date” of a fraudulent account. That pairing helps the bureau understand what happened without reading a long story.

If you are mid-application for a mortgage, auto loan, or rental, tell the lender you placed a freeze and ask which bureau report they plan to pull. That one detail keeps you from lifting the wrong freeze and losing time.

Requests that credit bureaus can act on

Be specific. “Fix my credit” invites delays. Ask for one action at a time, backed by the packet above.

Request	When it fits	What you send or say
Initial fraud alert (1 year)	Early warning while you gather proof	Contact info and identity verification details
Extended fraud alert (multi-year)	Confirmed identity theft	Identity theft report plus ID and address proof
Security freeze	Strong block on most new credit checks	Identity verification; save your PIN or login notes
Temporary lift of freeze	You are applying for credit	Date range and which bureau report a lender will pull
Dispute fraudulent accounts	Accounts, balances, or payment history you don’t own	Item list, identity theft report, proof tied to each item
Dispute unauthorized inquiries	Hard pulls you didn’t approve	Inquiry list, report, and a clear removal request
Block identity-theft items	You want identity-theft reporting removed, not “corrected”	Identity theft report and the exact lines to block
Fresh copy of your report	You need to verify removals after a dispute result	Ask during the same session as the dispute submission

Making contact that leaves a paper trail

You can contact a bureau online, by phone, or by mail. Online is fast for placing a freeze or a basic alert. Phone is good when your account access fails or you need clarity on documents. Mail is slower, but it creates a tidy record when you send tracked letters.

Use one master script

Read this, then stop talking. Let the agent drive the next question.

Phone script: “Hi. My identity was used to open credit I didn’t authorize. I need to place a [fraud alert / extended fraud alert / security freeze]. I also need the dispute or block process for these items. My name is ___, my current address is ___, and my best phone is ___. I can provide an identity theft report today.”

Ask for the exact submission path

• “Can I attach my identity theft report and ID in your online form?”
• “If not, what is the mailing address for identity theft disputes?”
• “Will you accept PDFs, or do you need copies?”
• “What confirmation number should I save for this request?”

Save proof as you go

Take screenshots of submission confirmations. Save emails as PDFs. If you mail a packet, keep the tracking page and delivery scan in the same folder as your letter.

Writing a dispute that gets processed

Your goal is to make it hard to misunderstand what you want removed and why. Clear item lists beat long explanations.

Build a one-page “item map”

• Line 1: creditor name, account number (as shown), and what you want done.
• Line 2: which attachment proves it. Example: “Attachment A: identity theft report.”
• Repeat for each item.

Use a letter structure when mail is better

IdentityTheft.gov provides a sample letter format you can adapt when you write to a credit bureau: Identity Theft Letter to a Credit Bureau. Keep your letter tight. Avoid extra pages that don’t tie to a disputed line.

What to do after the bureaus respond

Most clean-ups take more than one round. Stay organized and check your reports again so you catch stragglers.

Keep a simple log

• Date, bureau, channel (online/phone/mail).
• Action requested (freeze, alert, dispute, block).
• Confirmation number, tracking number, and outcome date.

Compare new reports line by line

When you get a dispute result, pull a fresh report from that bureau and verify the exact lines you listed are gone. Watch for the same debt reappearing with a new company name.

Parallel steps with creditors and banks

Even if the bureau removes reporting, the creditor controls the account. Call the creditor’s fraud department and ask for written confirmation that the account is fraudulent and closed. If money left your bank account, file a report with your bank right away and save the case number.

Common mistakes that drag this out

Paying for a “lock” when a freeze is free

Bureaus sell paid credit locks. A security freeze is free and works as a strong barrier. If you see upsells, keep scrolling until you find the free freeze option.

Sending unreadable documents

Blurry photos lead to rejection letters. Use a flat scan or a bright, sharp photo. Keep all four corners visible.

Disputing without an identity theft report

For identity theft, the report acts as your anchor document. Start there, then attach it to every dispute packet.

Fast checklist for your next submission

Item	Where it comes from	Done
Identity theft report PDF	IdentityTheft.gov account	☐
ID and proof of address	Government ID and recent bill	☐
Item map list	Marked credit reports	☐
Freeze or alert confirmation	Bureau portal or call log	☐
Mail tracking receipt (if used)	Postal tracking page	☐
Creditor case numbers	Issuer or bank fraud team	☐

If you feel stuck, restart with the basics: report, barrier, item list. Once those are done, every call becomes shorter and every letter becomes clearer.